Cleaning a Chainsaw, What To Avoid?

Cleaning a Chainsaw, What To Avoid?

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Cleaning A Chainsaw, the easy way. And why it matters? I know many people who would never dream of cleaning their chainsaws, they think that either there chainsaw is to complicated to clean but as you’ll learn in this article, it’s a very good idea to keep your chainsaw clean.

To clean a chainsaw safely and maintain its longevity, the number one thing to do is avoid using harsh chemicals, high-pressure water/steam, and abrasive materials, all of these can damage the chainsaw's components, scratch its surfaces, and remove protective coatings.

It's also important that you protect yourself by wearing protective gear, like gloves and goggles, while cleaning the chainsaw. By taking these simple precautions, you can ensure that your chainsaw will be in top condition and operate efficiently.

Table of contents

Before we start speaking about the equipment you will need and the manner of cleaning your chainsaw, let us first give an explanation for some of the problems that stop a dirty chainsaw from operating properly.

Common Chainsaw Problems

A chainsaw is an extraordinarily simple piece of machinery at first glance, but there is a lots of stuff going on underneath which cannot be seen until you remove the covers and take the whole thing apart.

Whenever a tooth on the chain digs into wood, it carves out small chips of wood alongside with tiny powder like specks of sawdust. The momentum of the rotating chain carries these particles into the groove of the bar upon which the chain rides.

Sawdust and timber chips also get flung into the areas in-between every chain link, combining with moisture, dirt and bar oil to create a compacted and quite sticky substance that soaks up fresh bar oil and reduces or stops the oil from lubricating the chain.

This will result in increased friction which will cause your chain to run hot, and it will also rub directly against the bar rails, this can result in the formation of a burr on both edges of the chain bar.

All of this damage will result in creating greater vibrations as the chain runs hotter and inflicts greater friction, easily cutting in a straight line becomes harder and you run the risk of the chain bounce off the uneven part on the bar which will stop you from cutting.

A chain that isn’t lubricated will fail sooner, and the last thing you would want is sharp metallic chain links flying into your face at 60mph

Sap, sawdust, grease, and other unwanted substances which also accumulate underneath the clutch cover on the side of the chainsaw will eventually clog the oil lubrication holes preventing bar oil from lubricating the bar of your chainsaw thereby reducing performance as well as reliability of the chain and bar.

The chain brake mechanism may also be impaired by this build up of dirt, this can cause the inertial brake to slip resulting in not be able to stop the chain from rotating in case of an emergency.

Sawdust and dirt can also be sucked into the saw body via the grill underneath the starter rope, this grill allows cool air to be sucked into the engine for cooling, but it can also allow in debris and sawdust that is produced when you cut wood.

The cooling fins on the cylinder head are subject to being clogged with a build up of Sawdust and wooden chips, this will restrict airflow and reducing cooling performance.

These fins are the main cooling device for your chainsaw and any reduction in airflow will result in the engine running hotter than usual and this will eventually result in damage to the motors internal parts (piston, cylinder, etc.).

For your chainsaw to run smoothly the air filter needs to be free and clean, and when it is clogged the carburetor will not receive the correct amount of air and this will affect engine performance at higher RPMs. If the air filter is clogged with dirt and sawdust, you may find that you are not able to start the chainsaw.

If you are having trouble starting your chainsaw you may also need to inspect the spark plug for a deposit of carbon on the electrodes, because a faulty or failing spark plug will result in incomplete combustion of the fuel/ air mixture or a loss of power.

A faulty spark plug can also mean that the engine refuses to start. As a preventative measure Stihl recommends the replacement of the spark plug with a new one every 100 service hours. To make sure you are replacing your sparkplug correctly check the owner’s manual to make sure you replace the sparkplug with one that is suitable for your chainsaw model.

How to Clean A Chainsaw

Tools you will need to clean a chainsaw

Optional:

  • Air compressor
  • Shop vac
  • Pressure washer

Note: You don’t need all the tools that we have mentioned in this list, the optional category is mainly for readers who own multiple chainsaws and need to clean 4 or 5 of them together. Unless you are a professional logger, workshop owner, or DIYer, you won’t need a pressure washer or shop vacuum. But if you happen to own a workshop, you probably have the fore-mentioned tools which are going to make your chainsaw cleaning experience much more convenient. And you might not need the universal cleaner fluid either, many experienced chainsaw users use simple household ammonia solution or kerosene to clean their grimy chainsaw bars and chains. On the field for quick cleanups between cutting sessions, all you need is a wrench and a brush.

Chainsaw Repair: How to Remove and Inspect the Bar and Chain

To be able to properly clean your chainsaw, you must first take it apart to gain easier access to all of the parts that get covered in dirt and debris. For this, you will need a flat and stable surface such as a workbench or table, you will also need space to layout all of your tools so that they are nearby and easily accessible as you work on your chainsaw.

If you’re working on an electric chainsaw the first thing you should do is disconnect the chainsaw from the power source, and if it is a cordless chainsaw remove the battery before you start cleaning. For gas chainsaws, it is a good idea to drain all fluids (fuel and bar oil) before you begin cleaning.

Now, locate the two nuts on the side cover which keep your bar attached to the powerhead. Loosen these nuts from the bar studs using the hexagonal wrench part of the wrench, and make sure that the anti- kickback chain brake is disengaged before you remove the clutch cover.

On some chainsaw models you cannot remove the cover while the brake is engaged, on others you might be able to remove the cover but you will not be able to replace it while the brake is engaged.

Chainsaw Repair: Cleaning the Bar

After removing the bar and chain from the powerhead, remove the chain and put it aside. Depending on how dirty the bar is, you may need to use a degreaser or solvent of some sort to clean it.

If you have only used your chainsaw for some light work over the weekend, you should be able to get all the dirt and grime off with some warm soapy water and a cloth rag.

Using your wire brush scrape away all of the sawdust and hardened grime from the bar. To clear out all the dirt that is stuck within the bar rails take your bar groove cleaner tool or a putty knife and carefully run it around the bar.

Once the groove of the bar is clean, inspect the oiler holes for dirt and grime, to remove any buildup take a pick or screwdriver and get rid of all the debris blocking the holes. There are two oiler holes in each bar, one on either side of the bottom end (the end that connects to the powerhead).

If you have an air compressor or a steam cleaner in your workshop you can use it to clean away any stubborn debris.

For chainsaws that are used only on weekends to cut some firewood hot soap water works just fine for cleaning. But what if you’re a professional gardener or arborist who uses the chainsaw daily for felling trees for a living?

When cleaning time is important compressed air and high pressure steam are the perfect choice and will clean the dirtiest of chainsaw guide bars. If though you don’t own a steam cleaner or air compressor, there is a another way to getting rid of pitch and dried up resin from your chainsaw bar.

You can use a solvent like Simple Green Pro HD Heavy Duty cleaner. This is a non- corrosive, biodegradable, multipurpose cleaner will acts as a solvent and degreaser to remove all of the dirt and grime deposits.

You need to mix the Simple Green Pro HD Heavy Duty cleaner concentrate in a 1:3 ratio with water, fill up a bucket or container large enough to hold your parts with the solution. Then place the bar along with the clutch cover into the bucket and let it soak for about 10 minutes, after the deposits have softened use the wire brush to scrape away the dirt. Dry the bar and then give it a light coat of the WD40 spray ,leave it to set for about half an hour or so, and then wipe off and excess spray with a rag.

Before installing the bar back onto the powerhead of your chainsaw, you need to check the edges of the bar to make sure there is no mushrooming going on around the rails. Carefully run your fingernails over the edge of the bar rail and if you can feel a sharp metal burr sticking out of the rail, it is time to take the hand file and smooth out the edges on the bar.

Removing the burrs from the bar edges so they are smooth and flat, will ensure the chain can ride without issues. A great tool for removing burrs and uneven edges from the guide bar is a chainsaw bar rail dresser tool, the tool removes burrs from the bar rails and levels the bar rail to reduce rail chipping while preventing your bar from knifing.

Chainsaw Repair: When To Replace The Bar

It is recommended by major chainsaw manufacturers that you turn the chain bar over each time you sharpen or change the saw, however the day will come though when you will need to replace the bar due to wear.

Some signs that you need to look for that the chainsaw bar is wearing out is a loss of cutting accuracy and efficiency. If when cutting you find your saw is no longer breezing through the cuts and they are now taking twice as long, and you’re sure that your chain is sharp enough, you need to look at how worn your bar has become.

Wiggle the chain back and forth laterally. Your chain should move freely back-and-forth, but a worn chainsaw bar will allow a lot more movement side to side. When a bar is new the bar’s groove will have a U-shape to it, but as it wears down, that U turns into a V-shape.

Obviously, this V-shape will allow more room for a chain to wriggle around. Another area to look at is the edges of the bar for burn marks, a lack of lubrication of the chain will cause the bar to over heat causing distortions and excessive burring. Regular cleaning and turning the bar regularly and extends its life by causing it to wear evenly on each side but at some stage a new bar will be required.

Chainsaw Repair: Cleaning the Chain

If your chain has only seen light duty and it isn’t too dirty, you can simply scrape off the dirt with a wire brush and wipe it clean with a rag. If your chain only has some stubborn build ups you could try spaying a little degreaser on the grime, leave the chain for a little time so that the degreaser can penetrate the grease before attacking it with a wire brush.

If however your chain has built up a large amount of grime, to clean the chain you will need to soak it in some turpentine or a solution of household ammonia and water (for 10 to 20 mins). Soaking the chain should dissolve or soften all the grease and resins from between the links of the chain, as well as dissolving most of the caked up sawdust. You should now be able to take the wire brush and scrape it clean, if you still have grime that refuses to be cleaned you can re-soak the chain.

Important: A caution for when working with an ammonia solution, it is crucial that you do not inhale the fumes, you need to work in a well- ventilated area and prevent direct contact with skin or eyes. Use gloves and eye protection as well as an appropriate respirator or mask..

If the chain is absolutely engulfed in resin and caked up sawdust, you can take some household lye, the type used to open up drains.

Follow the directions and pour the appropriate amount of pellets onto the cap of the container and mix it with about half a bucket of water. You need to wear thick gloves and eye protection when handling lye, do not let the pellets come in contact with your skin. Immerse the chain in the solution and let it soak for about 20 minutes or longer depending on how dirty the chain is.

Don’t let it sit in there overnight though, since the chain will start to rust. After the chain has been soaking for the designated time, remove the chain from the bucket with a hooked tool of some kind, DO NOT use your hands to remove the chain even if you are wearing gloves. Throw it on the ground outside, and hose it down thoroughly with plenty of clean water to remove all of the dirt. Let the chain dry, before taking the chain back inside and wipe it clean with multiple paper towels until all the dirt is gone.

Important: make sure to coat your freshly cleaned chain in some bar oil and wipe off the excess oil before reassembly with the guide bar. This way, it won’t rust.

Chainsaw Repair: Cleaning the Powerhead

To clean the powerhead, start off by using a small soft tip paint brush and work your way around the crankcase removing all the dirt and grime that has been collected. For build up that has collected in tight spots you can use the pick or flat end of the wrench to gradually scrape away every bit of sawdust that has collected around the clutch drum and bar studs. Inspect the oiler ports are free of debris.

If your workshop has an air compressor you can use compressed air to clean the powerhead, be mindful though of the air filter if it is a cartridge filter as high air pressure could cause damage. If you also have a pressure washer you could be tempted to use it to clean your powerhead, high pressure water can damage the air filter and could effect the electronic systems, so if you want to use your pressure washer be very careful.

To gain access to both the air filter as well as spark plug you need to remove the top cover. Inspect the air filter for dirt, if dust and dirt has collected on the filter take a soft tip paintbrush, or use low pressure compressed air, and carefully clean the filter medium. When the air filter is removed there is the risk that foreign object could fall directly into the air intake of the carburetor, you should therefore place a clean rag into the air intake or set the choke to “closed” position to seal the carburetor and therefore remove this risk.

If you want to rinse the air filter under running water it is recommended a non-inflammable, non oil based cleaner is used. If the air filter is really dirty, take some warm soap water and clean it from the inside out (water flows from clean side of filter to dirty side). After you have cleaned the filter rinse the filter with plenty of clean water to remove any of the cleaning solution and let it dry completely before replacing it in the chainsaw.

The spaces between the cooling fins on the cylinder head are a likely place where sawdust and grime builds up, any build up of dirt will impair the cooling efficiency of the engine so removing this gunk will improve engine cooling and increase your chainsaws lifespan. Use a screwdriver, wire brush or the bar cleaner tool to remove all the gunk from between the cooling fins. Also remember to remove the grill cover for the starter rope and brush away any sawdust that has built up around the crankcase.

Finally, remove the spark plug and inspect it for signs of degradation. Check the color of the electrodes, if they are a coffee brown color everything should be fine, if the electrodes are dark black or are covered with baked-on dirt this is a sign of incomplete combustion, you will need to clean the spark plug before replacing it, you may also find that it is time for a replacement. Check the gap between the electrodes to see if it is too large or small, incorrect gap size will prevent the spark plug from working properly.

When replacing your sparkplug always refer to your owner’s manual for the correct replacement part no., and always check the spark plug gap as the gap needed for your chainsaw may be different from what gap the spark plugs was set to from the factory. Stihl recommends a gap of 0.02 inches or 0.5mm for its NGK CMR6H and Bosch USR4AC spark plugs.

Chainsaw Assembly

Assembling your chainsaw is just the reverse of what you have done, for the first time user in can seem like a daunting task, but it’s actual very simple. With a bit of practice, taking apart and put together your chainsaw can be done in a matter of minutes. This is an essential skill to learn before operating your chainsaw, as it will sometimes be required to re-attach your chain should it come loose during operation.

For the assembly process it is recommended that you wear protective gloves to protect your hands, replace the engine cover and starter cord cover, take the chain and wrap it around the sprocket, and then around the guide bar. When mounting the chain be sure that the teeth are running in the correct direction by matching it to the diagram found on your guide bar. Next, take the side cover and line up the screw with the chain tensioning screw hole. You may find that the screw will not line up, using your screwdriver you can slowly rotate the screw until it lines up.

Replace the bar nuts and tighten the bar nuts by hand until the bar is firm but can still be moved by hand. With the screw in the tensioning hole, hold up the bar by the tip of its nose and rotate the tensioner screw clockwise until the chain just touch the bottom side of the bar rail.

You should be able to turn the chain by hand, If the chain is too loose or tight, it will cause wear and damage to the chain, which will effect performance. With the correct tension achieved, take the wrench and tighten the bar nuts on the side cover securely. Move the chain around the bar to check for smooth rotation. Operate the safety brake to make sure it locks the chain in place, Now your chainsaw is ready to cut wood, just refill it with gas and bar oil.

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